Many of us get asked what a lawn, landscape, and pest control company does during the winter. The answer is, plenty! Most of our field personnel are unable to work during the winter months, as the cold weather isn’t very conducive to treating lawns, spraying trees, or mulching flower beds. However, there are a few crews that stay quite busy throughout the winter.

Our Pest Control Division works straight through the winter, servicing our clients on our Quarterly Pest Control Program. Winter is a hot-time for rodent activity, and the technicians also preventatively treat for other insect issues that can even arise during the late winter/early spring months.

If the winter weather isn’t too brutal, our Certified Arborists prune and remove trees throughout the winter. If you watch closely, you may see one of our trucks cruising through your neighborhood on some of the more mild days of winter.

Some of our Commercial Clients also have us perform snow removal on their properties. This emergency service utilizes our workers from across the departments here at the company, so that we can quickly respond to make our Commercial Clients’ properties safe once again.

We have over 60 vehicles in our fleet, and also lots of small equipment to help us do our jobs. Each winter, our dedicated staff in our repair shop performs maintenance and improvements on these machines to keep us up and running during the prime season.

Even our office staff stays busy throughout the winter! There is much preparation to be done for the time of March when the bulk of our workers return. During the winter months, Account Managers meet with clients to review service changes, and also meet with the occasional pro-active consumer who is looking for a change with their service provider during the upcoming season.

We have had a wonderful year here at Tomlinson Bomberger, and our clients are the reason. Thank you for making our business successful for another year. If you need anything at all, please don’t hesitate to contact us!

The Gypsy Moth caterpillar, which is responsible for millions of acres of defoliation annually, was brought to the United States in 1869 in a failed attempt to start a silkworm industry. This bad idea from Leopold Trouvelot escaped from his back yard and now has spread across Eastern US and Canada.

Tree damage is caused by the insect larvae, or caterpillars, which emerge from their eggs beginning in early spring and continuing through mid-May.  They are easily identified by the distinct blue and red spots on their back. The larvae move to the leaves of trees and begin to eat, mostly at night.  Feeding continues until mid-June or early July when the caterpillar enters the pupal stage emerging, finally, as a moth.

The gypsy moth caterpillar likes to eat, and will eat anything like a hungry teenager at an ‘all you can eat’ buffet.  It prefers the leaves of deciduous hardwood trees such as Maples, Elms, and particularly Oaks.  Gypsy moths can also feed on Apple, Alder, Birch, Poplar, Hawthorn, Linden, and Willow trees.  As they grow they will also attack evergreens like Pines, Hemlocks, and Spruces.  Gypsy moths appear to dislike Ashes, Sycamores, Butternuts, Black Walnuts, Dogwoods and Balsams.  However, during heavy infestations, competition for food will drive the caterpillars to attack almost any tree or shrub.

Depending on the degree of infestation, tree damage ranges from light to almost complete defoliation.  Most deciduous trees can cope with a moderate degree of defoliation.  Many can even survive one complete defoliation.  However, continuing attacks can fatally weaken a tree or leave it vulnerable to other insects or disease.

Valuable trees in the landscape can be protected with insecticide sprays. These control materials are most effective if applied while caterpillars are still young (early to mid-May). Homeowners may have some limited success in spraying smaller trees. However, most trees infected with Gypsy Moths are tall, mature trees, so a professional tree service company would do a better job with a more thorough application to these trees.

If you suspect and outbreak of Gypsy Moth caterpillars on your trees or shrubs then you can blame Leopold and then call a trusted tree care company to give you advice on how to control this destructive pest.

Neil Beatty

Commercial Account Manager

B.S. Horticulture – University of Wisconsin

Bugs such as ants, centipedes, millipedes, crickets, earwigs, springtails, clover mites and others hatch out, wake up, and start to stir in the soil surrounding your home. As their numbers increase, so does the possibility of them invading your home. Overgrown vegetation and exterior areas that stay consistently damp are attractive to insect populations. Interestingly, insects have a unique moisture requirement; the smaller the bug, the harder it is for the insect to get enough water to effectively retain moisture.

Therefore, homeowners should be aware of leaky downspouts, clogged gutters, and landscaping that collects water as opposed to diverting water from the foundation. Even with good sanitation and moisture control around a structure, springtime pests still find their way inside. Exterior pipe voids, utility line entryways, doorways, windows, cracks in the foundation, crawlspace and attic vents, and expansion joints in concrete are all favorite thoroughfares for insects. Caulking and sealing cracks can help block these “pest highways”. But often, that’s not enough.

In addition, a key component is a thorough exterior inspection combined with a perimeter pest treatment with a residual insecticide. A professional pest control technician can apply long lasting materials in a safe and effective manner. These treatments provide a chemical barrier that insects crawl through and are essentially “taken out of commission” before successfully invading your home. Even if they do make it inside, they often are D.O.A. (dead on arrival) from the material’s active ingredient.

Don’t let springtime pests spoil your springtime fun…Permit a Pest Professional to Provide a Proactive Plan for Pesty Populations around the Perimeter of your home!

Barry Bradley
Senior Pest Control Technician

There are many different types of ants in our area but one of the most annoying and hard to control is the Odorous House Ant. These ants get their name from the odor they give off when crushed. Some people say it resembles a rotten coconut smell. Odorous House ants can be found foraging on exterior walls, across sidewalks, driveways and in mulch beds. On the interior one the most common areas they are seen is near kitchen sinks or other water sources. The house ant will be most active from spring through summer but can be seen any time of year.

When I see ants following a specific trail, what are they doing? When ants find a food source, they release a pheromone to light the path to their buddies. Typically, Odorous House ants are commonly seen foraging for food on the exterior which is also where most nests are located. The nests can be located under debris, in mulch, under stones and in other items in your landscape. Ants forage for food along well traveled trails and may feed on dead insects, sweets, meats and starchy foods. On the exterior one favorite food of the ant is the honeydew produced by feeding aphids and scale insects.

If I’m seeing a lot of ants on the exterior, does that mean they will get inside as well? Just because you have a lot of ants on the outside, it does not mean they will necessarily get inside your structure but many times they do. Ants can get into your structure through small cracks and crevices.  We recommend you seal as many of these on the exterior as possible. If you notice the ant trails entering a crack or crevice from the outside, this is most likely the ants foraging for food. The nest of these ants is most likely on the exterior but ants may create satellite colonies which can be located in your home. Wall and floor voids and areas that are warm and moist are places ants tend to build nests. A very common hot-spot for ants is anywhere there may be a portion of the home built over a concrete slab, such as a sun room or garage.

I am seeing ants in my home. What do I do now? Many times ants are seen in the kitchen or by another water source. Best practices in the kitchen consist of proper food storage and waste management. For example, place foodstuff in a sealed container or refrigerator. Rinse all recyclables and/or dishes after use and make sure to clean all surface areas. Many times the contact of soapy water will kill the ant but will have no residual effect. Various home remedies kill the worker ants foraging for food but generally have no effect on the colony as a whole.  Therefore, we recommend contacting a Professional Pest Control Company to remedy the situation. Since Odorous House Ants are one of the more difficult to control ant species, they will need multiple applications per year for good control. A Quarterly Pest Control Program is best when trying to rid yourself of these little stinkers!

Greg Tomlinson

Account Manager

Licensed Pest Control Technician

You may have never thought of this before, but the source of your water problem in your basement may be directly caused by a poor landscape design or up-keep. Obviously, landscaping isn’t always the problem, but in many cases, making these several changes to your landscape can make a huge impact on water getting into your home.

Do you get an A+ or an F? What’s the grade. I’m just trying to be clever here with a pun. The grade of your landscape means how it slopes away from your home. Crouch down and look along the side of your house where it meets the landscape. Does it slope away or towards your home? A proper grade should slope away from your home about 1″ for every foot it goes out from the foundation. This will cause surface water to direct into your lawn, instead of puddling against the walls of your house. Sometimes, adding a little topsoil, then covering with about 2″ of mulch  can be all it takes to steer the mighty waters away from your home. Hard surfaces should also be examined to determine how they are dispersing water. If patios, walkways, and driveways are the culprit, they may need re-installed or adjusted accordingly.

Get Your Mind INTO the Gutter! Gutters are meant to re-direct the precipitation landing on your roof, and to release it at the foundation of your home. Most times, gutter contractors just give a 90 degree elbow at the end to emit the water about a foot away from the structure. Homeowners often buy that black flexible pipe and extend it further. Although relatively effective, it’s not always the most attractive solution. We often will use PVC pipe and adapters to take this water flow even farther from the structure. In most cases, a Pop-up Drain Emitter can be installed on the end. This cap will pop up with the flow of water, and disperse into the lawn, hence its name. It’s a great solution that looks nice, and can be easily cleaned out. The best part is now instead of dumping the water a foot away from your house, it can be release 10+ ft. away.

Eliminate a Window of Opportunity. Sometimes, the window wells to your basement may be your problem. There should be at least 12″-18″ of gravel lining the bottom of a window well. The top lip of the window well should be at least 3″ above the finished grade of the landscape, or pooling run-off water may just fill the window well like a tub. This may mean ripping out the window well, digging out some earth, adding some gravel, and installing a new window well.

Drastic Problems Call for Drastic Measures. Maybe only these methods won’t fix your problem. At times, the grade of your lawn may need adjusted to create a swale. A swale is a purposefully lowered section of lawn, that will direct heavy flows of water in a specific direction. This may mean you will have to renovate a larger portion of your lawn, but if it fixes the problem, it’s well worth it. In some cases, there just isn’t enough space to cut a swale or change the grade. In these instances, catch drains can be installed. Similar to the grates you find in a street storm drain, these catch basins will collect water and use an underground pipe to direct the water elsewhere.

Good information is just that. If you really want to find out what’s going on, wait until the next downpour or heavy rain day you get. Grab the umbrella, slicker, and boots, and go outside and play hydro-detective. If you stand still enough and think long enough, you may find exactly what the problem is. We hope you find your answer, and remember, if you can’t figure it out, and/or don’t want to fix it yourself, find a great landscaper that can do grading and seeding (like us) for you.

Chad Diller

Residential Account Manager

Certified Arborist, Certified Turfgrass Professional

Mulching Keeps the Weeds Down: If you don’t believe me, watch how quick weeds will sprout in a dirt field. The mulch in a landscape bed keeps the soil cooler, which in turn, will prevent some weeds from sprouting. At most times, weed seeds will germinate IN the mulch, so this makes it even easier to pull them out when they show up.

Mulching Provides Organic Matter for Your Plants: As the mulch decomposes, it provides organic compost for your shrubs, making them grow healthier, and improving the soil around them!

Mulching Helps your Plants Retain Moisture: Again, don’t believe it? Go watch how fast a plot of dry soil will crack and dry out. A 2″-3″ layer of mulch around your plants will slow evaporation of the moisture in the top few inches of soil, so your plants can drink it up.

Mulch Looks Nice: Okay, I couldn’t resist. Sure, it’s not the primary benefit from mulching, but it’s a huge one that is impossible to ignore. When properly executed, edging and mulching landscape beds provides a clear definition of where the lawn stops and the landscape begins. It deters grass from growing into your beds, and accents your house and the rest of your landscape.

Think you’re up to the task? Mulching requires some skill, but a lot of homeowners do it themselves. Some enjoy the exercise, and some enjoy the ritual of getting their hands dirty each spring. Obviously, mulching yourself is a way to save yourself some money, but if you do so, make sure to follow these simple steps. It’s what WE do when we edge and mulch a landscape.

• Remove all the Weeds & Debris: If you have spent perennials or grasses from the past season, get them out of there. Pull the weeds, rake/blow out the leaves, and the neighbor’s trash that blew under your bushes.
• Apply some Pre-Emergent Weed Control: There are a bunch of formulations of granular pre-emergent herbicides available. Applying these materials before laying mulch down, will give you about 2-3 months of help to reduce seed germination in your landscape beds. Please read the label on the material you use. Although a few, there are some plants you do NOT want to apply this around.
• Edge the Beds: Use a tool to cut a crisp line around your beds. Make sure it is about 3″-5″ deep, and makes a smooth, crisp line. If you can’t afford a power walk-behind edger, or even one of those fancy ride-on ones like we use, you can do it the old fashioned way. Get a half-moon edger or use a sharp spade shovel. Make sure to dispose of the debris and clods.
• Apply the Right Amount of Mulch: The general rule is to apply 2″-2.5″ of mulch to your beds. If you apply more than that to an existing bed, it will not break-down and decompose by the next season. This means that a crust will form, and the mulch you add each year will accumulate. We’ve seen instances where mulch was 10″ + in a landscape bed! This means little moisture gets to the plant roots, and stays in the mulch. In some instances, this can cause girdling roots around some trees and shrubs, which can kill a plant.

Some people love it. Some people hate it and still do it. And then some people call us, and get us to do it for them. Whatever your case, make sure to mulch your landscape correctly and your property will look beautiful and your plants will thank you.

Chad Diller

Residential Account Manager

Certified Arborist, Certified Turfgrass Professional

The most important bit of information to consider is WHY is moss growing in places you wish grass was growing. The answer is, because the area is more favorable for moss than it is for the grass. Areas that are very conducive to growing moss are often soils that are very low in pH, with low fertility, and compacted. The environment is often shaded for at least half of the day or more, and stays moist and even water-logged at times.

If you know ANYTHING about growing a nice lawn, you realize that these conditions are not the best environment to grow a lush stand of grass. Most turfgrasses prefer to have soils that have a pretty neutral pH, have abundant Phosphorus and Potassium resources, and also about 3-4 lbs./1000 sq. ft. of Nitrogen in a year. Grasses prefer to have at least 5 or more hours of direct sunlight per day, and like moisture rich environments that are well-drained so they don’t remain water-logged.

Obviously, these two are at odds. What happens in most situations, is one wins, not both. Even though you can find both grass and moss coexisting, one will eventually conquer over another.

So what’s the solution? Create the best environment for your grass that you can! Here are a list of things you can do to improve conditions:

• Correct the Soil pH and Fertility:  Make sure you are fertilizing the proper amount for the species of grass that you have growing in these areas. This means don’t OVER-fertilize, as well as, don’t UNDER-fertilize. Take a soil test to determine the existing soil pH, and take the proper measures with Limestone to correct the pH.
• Relieve Soil Compaction & Grow Some Grass:  Use a core aerator to work this area up. Run over it several times with an aerator, several times per year. Seed the areas to introduce new grass. If the areas are bare, an aerator alone will not do it. Either till the area completely, or slice-seed in addition.
• Get More Sunlight to these Areas:  This may require you to prune and even REMOVE trees. Yes, I said it. The sad reality is you can’t always have the best of both worlds. Any species of grass will require at least 3 hours of direct sunlight per day, so if these areas are not getting that much light even after pruning or removing trees, you may need to find an alternative to having a lawn in these areas.

Sometimes the truth isn’t pretty. Like I said, I wish it were as easy as treating the moss with some selective herbicide. There ARE products that are available that CLAIM to control the moss. We haven’t seen anything make a big enough impact to recommend it. Even if you get rid of moss with a product such as them, you will get it back again because you aren’t fixing the real problem, which is the environment of this area of your lawn.

If you feel that you are at your wit’s end and can’t or don’t want to get rid of your moss, consult with a professional lawn care company that will also be able to prune your trees, and do the needed seeding work in those areas of your lawn. Good luck, and we hope you win the “Battle”.

Chad Diller

Residential Account Manager

Certified Turfgrass Professional, Certified Arborist

Three Misconceptions About Trees

• “My tree doesn’t look right, or there is some funny substance or bug on it. I have stuff in the garage that I can spray on it which should help.” If only it were this easy. There are about a hundred things wrong with this statement, yet we see people naively take this attitude to dealing with their trees. There is a very specific process to improve the health of a plant. A lot of issues relating to Mites, Insects, and Diseases can be treated with materials that will improve their health. This becomes very complicated though. There are even cases where treating one pest with the wrong material, can actually raise the population of another pest, or kill off beneficial predator insects. Each specific pest/disease has a very specific timing to treat. If you miss it, it could be completely useless. If you only apply it once, and it calls for it on multiple intervals, that too could be useless. Identify the host plant, identify the target pest, and research what is the current and proven control method. Some times it’s not even a pest-related issue you may be looking at!

• “What’s the big deal with planting trees? Anyone can do it. You just dig a big hole, and put it in there.” If only it were this simple. In our business, we get to meet plenty of people that have trees in bad shape. The sad thing is a lot of times, this happened because of the way the tree was installed. Planting at the proper depth, examining the root ball for girdling roots, and selecting a good specimen in the nursery are key measures that are often neglected. This often leads to shortened life of trees, and poor appearance. Equally important is properly spacing plants. Most untrained contractors, and unknowing homeowners find a cute, little plant in a nursery and imagine how nice it will look in their garden. Unfortunately, little consideration is given to the eventual mature size of these plants, their light and soil requirements for good health, or what plants they will perform best when planted nearby.

• “I can prune my trees. I have a pole saw and a chainsaw.” Tree pruning is very comparable to surgery. Do it wrong, and it may mean big problems later. Of course, you may get away with removing some small branches and never see any negative effects. However, improper pruning is a huge cause of shortened lifespan of trees, and also can create disease problems for trees. A Certified Arborist gives careful consideration to which branches they will select for pruning. They will also know how to cut the branch at the proper angle and location so the pruning wound will compartmentalize and “heal” to the best of its ability. Improper cuts can lead to decay in parts of the tree that will cause considerable hazards in the future, and can even cause the tree to decline in health.

This is just the tip of the Naive Iceberg. If you want to take care of your trees we salute you as you search for more knowledge. Find worthy resources like your local Penn State Extension Office, or from organizations such as TCIA or International Society of Arborists. If it’s not a new hobby you’re looking for, and you’d rather just leave the research to the professionals, find a knowledgeable, trusted, and local professional tree care company. They’ll be able to set you straight!

Chad Diller

Residential Account Manager

ISA Certified Arborist

The answer is not a simple yes or no, but …. “it depends”.  It depends on how low the temperature drops, how long it stays below freezing and the type of plant it is.  Sometimes the leaves will show no ill effect, sometimes they will grow distorted or parts of the newly emerged leaves will die.

If you have annuals or vegetable plants and a frost warning is given then usually lightly covering them with a sheet will be sufficient to hold off damage.  Remembering the factors of how low the temperature gets and how long it is below freezing will factor in.

What do I do if they have been damaged?  Herbaceous plants, such as Hostas and Daylilies, usually recover with no problem. Early spring bloomers like Pulmonaria and Bleeding Heart may not bloom properly until next spring, but the plants themselves will be fine. Go ahead and cut the damaged foliage back, more new leaves will push up as temperatures warm.  (Avoid cutting bulb foliage back before it yellows and dies on its own.  This would inhibit proper bulb development for the following year.)

Trees and shrubs that had their new growth killed back will most times recover with no problems. Some species may even send out a second flush of leaves.

If you are unsure of what to do then you should talk to a Certified Arborist or a reputable tree or landscape company to help diagnose the extent of the injury.

Neil Beatty

Commercial Account Manager

B.S. in Horticulture from University of Wisconsin

• Determine the ultimate purpose for the tree.  Shade, beautification, screening, and/or wildlife habitat are key considerations.  Knowing these factors help narrow the decision process.

• Consider the space that the tree will grow in. How much space is there for the tree to grow into.  How far away will it need to be planted from structures and/or other plant material.  Plant a tree that will fit the space properly when it has matured.

• Give careful thought not only the flower color, but also fall fruit and fall colors, or possibly fruit color and characteristics. Consider the look and impact it will make to the landscape after spring is over.

• Research the potential problems this tree might have. Is it prone to disease? Insect problems?  Structural weakness?  If additional management will be necessary to maintain proper health then you want to know that before you plant the tree.

Here are some great Spring-Flowering trees for Central Pennsylvania:

Serviceberry (Amelanchier sp.) – A great native white-flowering tree, that blooms very early in spring and produces fruit in June that attract birds.  There are shrub and tree cultivars.  Serviceberry trees also typically have great fall color.

Redbud (Cercis Canadensis) – Magenta buds and violet pink flowers bloom before foliage develops in April. Native to Pennsylvania and grows in both acid and alkaline soils. The traditional variety of Eastern Redbud has green heart-shaped leaves throughout the year. There is also a cultivar called Forrest Pansy that has purple leaves through most of the growing season

Dogwood (Cornus species) – The flowering dogwood (C. florida) is a great plant for the landscape, but must be planted in sunny locations, as anthracnose disease can be devastating in shade. It comes in pure white, light & dark pink and rosy red.   It can also be devastated by borer insects.   Kousa Dogwood (C. kousa) is highly prized in the landscape for its flowers and pest & disease resistance.  It flowers 2 to 3 weeks later than C. florida which creates a unique contrast. American varieties will flower before leafing-out, whereas the Kousa will have leaves first and blooms will grow out on top of the leaves.

Hawthorn (Crataegus sp.) – The Washington Hawthorn is native and highly adaptable, producing a profusion of white flowers with attract brilliant red fall fruit and is densely covered with 1–3 inch thorns providing wonderful bird habitat.  Other Hawthorns are the Lavalle Hawthorn (C. x lavalle) and Cockspur Hawthorn (C. crusgalli). A great  cultivar is ‘Winter King’.  Some cultivars are more disease resistant than others, and a few are thornless.

Magnolia (Magnolia sp.) – When in bloom, the spectacular flower display of the hybrid Saucer Magnolia that comes in white, rose, pink and maroon cultivars has few rivals to its eye catching beauty.  Another variety is Sweetbay Magnolia has cream white flowers, and does well in wet soils. There are also dozens of other great varieties that vary in bloom colors, sizes, etc.

Crabapple (Malus Sp.) – Flowering Crabapples are the dominate spring flowering tree with over 800 cultivars one can find a rounded upright form, weeping forms, cutleaf, white, pink or red flowers and fruit that stay on all winter and becoming food for migrating spring song birds. The improved varieties are highly disease resistant. Here are a few varieties that work well in PA: Malus floribunda, ‘Tea Crab’, ‘Sargent Crabapple’, ‘Zumi Calicarpa’, ‘Indian Summer’, ‘Liset’, ‘Prairiefire’ and ‘Mary Potter’.

Flowering Cherry (Prunus Sp.) -  These are some of the first to bloom in early spring. Available in pink and white.  The Cherry Blossom Flower is the national flower of Japan, where the tree is named Sakura which translates as ‘tree on which god sits.’  The ‘Kwanzan’ Flowering Cherry tree is considered to be the most beautiful flowering tree by many landscapers. The Nation’s capitol in Washington, D.C. began planting ‘Kwanzan’ Flowering Cherry trees last century and thousands of tourists migrate there for the Flowering Cherry Tree festival in the Spring to enjoy the pink flowering extravaganza. Other varieties include ‘Yoshino’ Flowering Cherry, and ‘Snow Fountain’ Flowering Cherry Tree.

This list is not meant to be all inclusive but to get you pointed in the right direction.  Remember the site you are planting in and what you would like this tree to accomplish for you. Remember to research the proper way to plant a tree or find an experienced and qualified local landscaper to plant your trees for you!

Enjoy the majesty of our Spring Flowering Trees!

Neil Beatty

Commercial Account Manager

B.S. in Horticulture from University of Wisconsin